The Nancy
Shepherd’s Corner
Nancy Shepherd has been a pig person
since the mid-1970’s, but potbellied
pigs became her focus in 1989 when she
acquired her first breeding pair,
Jitterbug and Yoda. While this pair has
crossed over, their genetics was strong
in her breeding program and she
produced fine, well-bred pets for 25
years. In 2013, she was forced to stop
breeding because of her inability to find
unrelated breeding stock. It seemed that
breeders no longer felt it was important
to have pure-bred, registered stock. She then, like most
potbellied pig breeders and potbellied pig associations, began
educating, counselling, and providing references and resources to
people desiring important information on the care, training and
management of a pet pig. NorthWest Miniature Pig Association
has learned an abundance of important information from Nancy
Shepherd and wishes to share information from her PotBellied
Pig Parenting Book and her website on a rotating basis.
Each month this page will feature a different article from the
book Potbellied Pig Parenting by Nancy Shepherd as well as from
presentations, lectures, seminars, and other informational
gatherings pertaining to subjects related to potbellied pigs.
Check back each month for a new article. These articles will not
accumulate on this webpage.
For information on ordering the entire book (110 pages of info
and articles), please contact Patty Hill @ E-mail
pattyrocs@msn.com
Introduction By Patty Hill:
Always have your pig in a confined area with crowding
boards handy, straddle the pig and grab behind the front
legs like giving him a hug, lean back and a person will put
a chair behind you so you can sit, at the same time there
will be a stool being put under the pig’s butt, lean back in
the chair so the pig is leaning back with you; this makes it
easier on your back! When the hoof trim is finished, lean
to one side just a bit and put the pig down easy. Have 4
people to help: a holder, the person that's doing the
hooves, a person to hold the nose, and a person to put
the chair under the holder and the stool under the pig’s
butt, make sure the pig’s tail isn't bent on the stool.
Never pull or grab legs!
By Nancy Shepherd:
HOW DO I TRIM MY PIG’S HOOVES?
It’s always better to do maintenance procedures on
your pig at home where the environment is familiar and
your pig feels safe rather than to have the vet, who your
pig perceives as a stranger, work on her. If your piggy is
touchable all over, you should have no trouble keeping
her hooves in good shape. You may need to take the time
to acquaint your pig with the trimming tool you will be
using so she is not afraid of it. This can be accomplished
simply by letting her see it in her environment and nose
around on it (making sure she doesn’t hurt herself, of
course). This toe job will be much easier if you enlist a
helper. One person rubs and loves up pigger while the
other provides a careful pedicure. I last trimmed the
hooves of my favorite sow, Aggie, while she was a-
farrowing. Aggie was so centered on her motherly duties
that she paid no attention to me.
Be sure not to cut too much of the hoof or bleeding
will result, then you will have a tenderfoot to contend
with. If you examine the toe and pad structure of the
hoof, you will see where and where not to trim. This is
especially easy to note on pigs with white hooves. Make
sure to snip off the sharp points on the dew claws as well.
Work slowly and prudently and don’t expect to complete
the job in one session. It may take several attempts. File
off any residual, rough edges that could scratch either
you or your pig.
A pig will usually give you “notice” if you are getting
too close to the quick. She will flinch or try to get up.
Listen to this signal and back the trimmer off a bit. If you
should accidentally cut too far, have some baking flour
close by to apply to the area that is bleeding. This should
stop it momentarily.
The most effective tool I’ve found is a goat/sheep
hoof trimmer that looks much like a pair of small pruners.
If you are unable to locate a trimmer tool that you like at
the hardware or farm supply store, you can order an
excellent hoof trimmer from Jeffers Vet Supply.
Regularly exercising your pig on concrete or securing
an asphalt shingle to an area your piggy frequently walks
upon (such as an entrance ramp), will minimize your toe-
trimming duties. Set up a passive pedicure situation by
placing concrete patio tiles where your pig waters (as an
outside application). When setting up a concrete pedicure
platform, be sure it is large enough that all four feet pass
over it. I recently made a very successful watering station
comprised of twelve-inch square concrete patio tiles that
are available at lumber, hardware and garden centers.
The area is three blocks wide by four blocks long, with
the water dish at the back. Every time piggy goes for a
drink, her hooves are receiving a little carefree filing. If
you simply cannot get this job done at home, which is
definitely advisable, your veterinarian will be able to
complete the task.
By Chris Christensen:
HOOF TRIMMING
Very important. Pigs whose hooves are allowed to
grow too long can develop serious leg problems. One of
the pig’s greatest problems is getting those spindly little
legs to support that potbelly. Long hooves shift the weight
back and break down the hoof and ankle structure. If the
pig is overweight it will, of course, increase the severity
of this problem. This is a situation that many pig owners
take care of without the help of a vet. You can try
sprinkling food on concrete surfaces daily to help your pig
wear down his hooves. Beware if the pig is only used to
soft surfaces this may be uncomfortable on the pig’s legs
and could possibly cause hoof cracking. Introduce this
process slowly. You can also hold the pig as described
earlier and trim the hooves yourself with a cutter, file or
even an electric Dremel tool. This will be stressful for
both you and the pig. You may be able to slowly train
your pig to let you trim his hooves when he’s laying down
to get belly rubs or when he is eating. Just a little at a
time and don’t force it.
By Nancy Shepherd:
POOR HOOF CARE
Rescue pigs often have really long, unattended-to
hooves. Overgrown toenails can cause major leg problems
because of improper weight distribution. Pigs will tend to
start toeing out when their hooves are too long. Next,
they start walking on the sides of their feet instead of
walking straight forward. This is most unhealthy.
Optimally, you teach your pig as a youngster that
pedicures are pleasant. Regular attention to your pig’s
hooves takes only moments and will save you time and
trouble, not to mention your pig’s well-being. Desensitize
your pig to the hoof-trimming tool and the feel of having
her feet fondled. Refer to “Potbellied Pig Information,
Please!” for details on how to give a toe job. If you will
make a routine of walking your pig on concrete surfaces,
hoof trimming will be minimal. Should you decide to
begin a walking regimen on concrete, start slowly as it
will take a while for your pig’s legs to adjust to this new,
hard surface and don’t overdo it. This works for settling
down your pig before a hoof trim: Ply your pig with
several bottles of really dark stout beer that is at room
temperature. You will be amazed at the
result…..Really!!!!!
Having a pet pig is not unlike having a child. You
must provide all the pig’s needs to ensure it has a safe,
healthy and happy life. It is also your job to provide a
stimulating and challenging environment with
opportunities for your pig to grow intellectually.
Discipline, quality time, proper diet and routine health
care are four ways to circumvent common pet pig
problems.
(click images to enlarge)
(click images to enlarge)